Did You Know |
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Shooting |
By Warren Mayes |
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When I was twelve years old I purchased my first cap and ball revolver, a brass framed 1851 Colt Navy. I’d ride my bike a few miles out of town and walk the sage brush hills in pursuit of the mighty jack rabbit. To a twelve-year-old those jacks where as big as a house and could jump 20 feet high. More often than not I’d empty my Colt Navy without even so much a loosening a tuft of hair. But every so often I’d get one - the good old days. Thirty years have passed and several Colt reproductions have slipped through my hands. I’ve always liked the lines of Colt’s Third Model Dragoon and when the opportunity to purchase one came – I did. |
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A Uberti copy of Colt’s Third Model
Dragoon |
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Browsing through the Possible Shop’s web pages I
found exactly what I was looking for. I also found all the necessary
accessories to include a Walker flask, an original Ted Cash Universal
Capper, Hornady round balls, Eastern Maine lube and cleaning supplies.
Eight days after placing my order with The Possible Shop’s friendly and
knowledgeable staff the package arrived. All content was securely
packaged, of the correct quantity and nomenclature – perfect. |
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Left. Hard to see the powder in the cylinder but
its there, 40 grains of Goex 3f .425 inches below the cylinder chamber
mouth. Note the setting on the Walker flask. Right. With a 40 grain charge, ball seats .130 below cylinder chamber mouth with .160 inch powder charge compression. I tried .451, .454 and .457 round balls. The .451 ball is too small as there is an incomplete ring of lead shaved from ball when seated. The .457 ball requires a great deal of effort to seat with an excessive amount of lead removed during the seating process. The Hornady .454 ball seats with minimal effort with a complete ring of lead removed during seating. |
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Loaded cylinder ready for lube. |
Lubed and ready. |
The Uberti Dragoon is a quality piece of work, finish is good, metal to metal fit is good, and the grip is a nice piece of hard wood. Overall - an excellent product. I was a little stuck on which capper would work best. The Possible Shop recommended an original Ted Cash Universal Capper - good advice. After using the Ted Cash capper I’m quite fond of it for several reasons: It’s well made – in Wisconsin – positively feeds one and only one cap at a time, fits my hand well, is easy to fill and is durable enough to firmly seat a cap on the nipple. |
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Walker flask, Ted Cash universal capper and Hornady round balls. |
At 25 yards, with 40 - 50 grains of Goex 3f and a
very generous 6 o’clock hold I could not keep shots in a 12 inch bull–
every shot went high. I moved to 50 yards and discovered the ball was
still gaining altitude. From the bench I found the sights worked well at
100 yards. The front blade was too short. |
Shows rounded rear sight notch |
Shows .220 inch dot blade front
sight. |
The second time out, 21 degrees with a 5 -10 mph quartering tail wind, all worked well. This revolver likes forty grains of Goex 3f, a Hornady .454 round ball seated .130 inches below the cylinder chamber mouth, a generous amount of lube over ball and #11 caps on the new AMPCO nipples. I’ve long believed ample lube is the key to accuracy when shooting black powder. When shooting a Sharps Rifle ample lube makes all the difference in the world. I believe (check out the pictures) the same holds true for a cap and ball revolver. I topped each ball with a generous amount of Eastern Maine Premium Lube. The Eastern Maine Lube and their many other quality products are as good or better than most I’ve used. Even at an ambient 21 degrees F the Eastern Maine lube was easy to apply. This powder, ball, cap and lube combination shoots pretty good in this revolver and is a pleasure to shoot. |
Same
target, twelve shoot group, 25 yards, off hand. I love these 200 yard
targets, they have an orange bull on the back and plenty big enough to
see. |
After 12 shots – a dry .45 bristle brush easily
removed the fouling. Note the bead on the top of the front sight. |