WOMEN'S FRONTIER
CLOTHES PATTERNS

The ever growing time of Eagle's View frontier life clothing patterns features complete, easy-to-follow instructions that are clear, concise and well illustrated. Hints on sewing with leather and fur have been included in appropriate patterns, and all of the terns used are defined so that anyone from the novice to the experienced seamstress will be comfortable using them.

All of the items in this pattern were used by the Indians and fur traders. Included are an awl case, fringed bag, knife sheath, mirror pouch, ration card bag, scissors pouch, side fringed pouch and tobacco pouch.

This three-hide dress is typical of the Plains Indian dress worn by the women of many tribes. It may be decorated with beadwork, quillwork, shells, coins, fur, fringing, ribbon, metal cones and/or trade cloth; for everyday use, it was worn without adornment. Included are instructions for a "natural style" that has the legs and natural edges intact, and a 'Tailored style" with long sleeve fringe and cut edges. The pattern features an extensive section on Working with leather. Sizes available from the Pattern are 8 through 20.

Cloth dresses come to the Plains Indian women with the westward movement of the fur trade. Light calicos were very popular for everyday use, red and blue trade cloth (broadcloth) was used for "best dress," and today this dress with ribbons on it is commonly seen at rendezvous and pow-wows. Using this pattern, you can create the calico Plains Indian cloth dress, the now classic "ribbon dress" and the traditional trade cloth dress. Included in the pattern (size 8 thru 20) are options for three different neckline styles and two distinct sleeve variations.

The fur traders made extensive use of the blanket capote. The Capote with it's bright color and contrasting stripes, was quickly adopted by the Indians of North America. These coats were popular along the western moving frontier and were later used by soldiers and frontiersmen. This pattern is for the traditional mid-calf length and has variations in hood tassels and fringe. This pattern is for adults (men' sizes 30 through 50 and women's sizes 8 through 20).

The women's cloth accessories pattern includes pockets, kerchief, mob cap and bonnet. Eighteenth century women wore one or two pockets under their apron or skirt for carrying things. These oval bags are tied around the waist with a tape, the slit opening is accessible through openings in the skirt. The pocket is sometimes decorated with embroidery. Kerchiefs come in several sizes and can be worn in a variety of ways: small tied around the neck, medium over the shoulders and tucked in the bodice and large used a shawl. A  mob cap is a simple circular hat that ties with a drawstring around the head.

The under-most garment that was basic to women of the colonial and fur trade eras was the woman's chemise. This could serve as both an undergarment and nightgown and was also called a shift or smock. Traditionally made of fine linen, silk or cotton, the chemise has a gathered scooped neckline and gussets above or below the elbow sleeves.

This fine pattern included detailed illustrated instructions for the construction of woman's skirts, petticoats and aprons. It is a must for the traditional lady. The kind of fabric, the amount of material in a skirt or petticoat, the kind of waistband used, were indicative of the "station" and living style of a woman in the18th and 19th centuries. Linen or wool were used for everyday. For many women that was all they had or could afford. For special occasions finer weight fabrics, silk and cotton were used. This skirt pattern has either the peasant style drawstring or a fitted waistband.

The woman's bodice or vest was worn over the chemise. The bodice is styled similar to a corset and if made of heavy firm wool, lined and tied snugly, gives much the same effect. Fabrics can match the skirt, be of similar weight, but a contrasting color, or of a stripe or calico in a lighter weight fabric. This fine pattern offers a hip length or a waist length bodice with a pointed front variation so that it may be tailored to individual desires or needs. The bodice is lined for more strength and warmth. Three front closing variations are: ties sewn on both sides of the front, lacing through eyelets on the front or buttons with loop.