I bought a rifle for my husband, John for his birthday.  He has hand burned all decorations and carved them.  You asked me to send pictures when he completed his gun...here they are.  He burned stained, and did all of this on his own...I think he is pretty amazing

I got your letter about the rifle kit.
I am shooting .310 Hornady balls with a .015 pillow ticking patch, 21.5 gr 777. 
Included are the pictures of the finished rifle and the groups it shot today. 1.25" @ 50yds, 2"@ 75 yds. You can see I replaced the sights with a Skinner Sights rear peep and a Lyman 17 A front sight on a low Marbles Ramp. I couldn't be happier. Thankyou for having such a quality kit. The squirrels on my farm better look out this fall!!

Hi, 
  I am sending some pictures of the Traditions Blunderbuss kit I purchased from you people a short time ago. Yes it was fun to assemble. More fun to shoot. I did have some problems with some of the metal parts needing to be reworked. I finished the barrel with Birchwood-Casey "Plumb Brown" and the stock with Min-wax products. 
  This gun shoots very well. Have yet to try a ball or conical bullet yet. Tried several shot loads. Mostly I used a 60 grain fff black powder with a 1 to 1 load of #5 shot. Patterns well at 25 yards. 
  I will use this gun mostly for target shooting and display as it is kind of a novelty gun. 
Thank you, Mat

I finished my Traditions Mountain Rifle today. It was the first kit I have ever built. I was awesome to build and I had a lot of fun in the process. I can't wait till next hunting season to try it out. I have a true passion for flintlock hunting and this rifle will make me proud to carry in the outdoors. Thanks a lot and good shooting.
Henry

We did not purchase my kits from you. I did buy 2 Hawkin Woodsmans. My son and I built them and it was an awesome experience. The kits were very easy to assemble with minimal sanding. We had to sand the fore stock to be flush with the brass nose piece and sand the butt part of the stock to be flush with the butt plate.  All of the inletting was already well fit. Other fitting that had to be done was the trigger guard which had to have the rear part fit into the mortise, the front sight and the dovetail key for the rear sight. The dovetail key was a bit proud of the barrel and would not allow the sight to tighten. We chose different stain so that we would never get them mixed up.  I chose Birchwood Caseys tru oil and paste wax for the finish. Several have compliments us on them. We sighted them in yesterday and i was shooting a 3" group at 100 yards using 70 grains of 3f propellant and a hornady round ball with a .015 patch. I am really happy with that because I hear 6" is all you can expect.
Sincerely,
Kevin & Kevin

Greetings:  I purchased the Kentucky flintlock kit.  It came packaged well and complete.  Please understand this is not a complaint of any sort.  I feel the kit was worth the price.  The end result was pleasing. First inspection:  I was surprised that the brass pieces came finished nicely.  The stock came well built and required little inletting, but did require contouring, mostly around the butt plate.  I did remove some wood behind the lock where the sear appeared to lightly touch the stock. I also replaced the brass plate that went between the rear and front stock pieces with ebony, which allowed me to use just the two steel pins and epoxy the stock together.  I also slimmed down the fore arm area of the stock along the barrel channel.  (Mostly in width)  The three ramrod thimbles were replaced with ones made from maple and simply glues in place.  The rear lock mounting screw needed shortening because the stock was a little too narrow and allowed the screw to protrude and touch the cock, seizing up the action.   OK, (Not griping....)  I find the whole lock to be hap hazard and simply sub standard.  The lock plate is OK.  The hammer (cock) is OK too.  As is the pan and frizzen.  The sear screw hole is too large and allows it to wobble....The trigger bar is a full 1/8" too short in thickness and is way too far from the sear trip pin (arm)  giving a large initial take up before contact with sear.  AND lastly...when a flint is mounted normally in the hammer clamp, the lock fails to complete a full stroke.  It hangs on the frizzen lower edge and also fails to open the frizzen completely. The rear and front stock pieces appear to be of different wood as they take stain differently and appear not matched.

-The geometry between the hammer pivot and the frizzen is too small (close).  I can not correct that, so by mounting the flint in the hammer upside down, I can get normal operation. 
- I fabricated a new trigger, adding extra metal along the top edge of the arm, then file fitted it to the sear allowing a little take up before contact.  It operates normally and predictably now.
- I had to leave the sear screw hole too large as I didn't want to take the time to make a new sear and properly fit it.
- I find the "floppy" trigger to be distracting, so I custom wound a compression spring that would simply drop into the existing space under the trigger arm and behind the sear arm.  The trigger acts normally and predictably now. - Those are short term repairs until I can find a better built lock that will fit the rifle.  It seems to be a 7/8 size copy. Dean