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Primitive Fire Methods

 
FIRE is essential, not just for warmth but for cooking, signaling, purifying water, and various other useful tasks. To succeed in making fire utilizing primitive methods takes practice and carefully wrought equipment. The following methods will describe how to start and maintaining a fire without matches.
 
 Success in making fires is achieved only with practice and carefully wrought equipment. No amount of effort will produce a fire when dexterity is lacking and when equipment is crude. Getting that firs spark to burs into flame is somewhat of a surprise, but from that moment, it is almost certain that future attempts will be successful.
 
Tinder:
 The purpose of tinder is to get the spark to hold. Tinder is made from dry bark which is light and fluffy and can be made from shredded grass, moss, bird’s nests, and various plant fibers. Good tinder is essential to a successful fire start.
 
 Preparation of tinder requires special attention. It should always be finely shredded (but not powdered) so that the bundle is a soft, fluffy, fibrous mass which will not fall apart. Rubbing the bundle between the hands is perhaps the best way to make tinder light and fluffy.
 
 The following list contains the more common tinder’s available in nature. Others may be found by experimentation in different geographical areas.

Barks:
Cliffrose: Shrub – outer bark from trunk and larger limbs.
Cottonwood Tree – inner cambium layer on old dead trees
Sagebrush – other bark from trunk of larger plants
Juniper – outer bark from trunk of mature trees.

Plant Fibers and Silks:
Yucca: Fibers from pounded dead leaves or ready made at the base of the dead plants
Nettle: Fibers from pounded dead stalks
Milkweed: Fibers from pounded dead stalks; also silk from pods.
Dogbane: Fibers from pounded dead stalks
Thistle: Down from Tops
Cattail: Down from seed heads
Various grasses: Dead leaf blades, partially decomposed, lying of base of plants.
Oakum: Is made of fibers from the jute plant.

Flint and Steel:
Steel, a luxury item, is rarely found in nature and then only if someone has left or lost it. When present in the form of a pocketknife, nail file, and so forth, it can be used in combination with a hard stone to produce sparks hot enough to catch tinder.

Flint stones come in a wide range of types, all of which contain some silica. Agate, jasper, and quartzite are perhaps the best, though any silica stone will do. It should be broken into angular chunks to produce sharp edges.

Striking the initial spark takes patience. The easiest method is for a person to hold a stone in one hand and in the other hold a closed bladed pocketknife or something similar, and with a loose jointed wrist strike the sharp edge of the stone, until the sparks fly onto the tender.

Bow Drill:
Making fire with a bow drill is a simple task if the tools are constructed correctly. Basically the Bow Drill has four parts, the fireboard, drill, socket, and a bow.

The fireboard, which should be about 1/2” thick, can be made from a dead branch. A slight depression must be drilled along one edge and can be smoothed and deepened by a few turns of the bow and drill. A notch, which reaches to the center of the pit, is cut in the side of the board and catches the fine powder ground off by the drill. It is in this fine powder that the spark is formed.

The drill may be constructed with same wood as the fireboard and should be from 8 to 12” long and about Ύ” in diameter. The top end is sharpened to a point while the bottom is blunt.

The socket is made by drilling a depression in any piece of hardwood or stone that fits your hand. The drill runs smoother if the socket is lubricated with grease. The use of water for lubricating a socket only makes it swell and bind.

The bow should be 18 to 25” long and about ½’ in diameter. A branch with a fork on one end makes an excellent bow. The best string is a strip of Ό” wide buckskin or other leather, but substitutes can be made from plant fibers, shoelaces, or some kind of cord. The cord is attached to one end of the bow and twisted until it is tight and round before being tied to the other end. It is good to fix one end in such a way that it may be loosened or tightened as needed.

In using the bow drill, one places the fireboard on a flat piece of bark or wood. The spark will fall onto this piece and can then be carried to the tinder. The tinder is placed in the hole under the board in a position which allows the spark to fall directly onto it. You then place the drill, with the bow cord twisted once around it, in the fireboard socket. Using the hand socket to apply pressure, you then move the bow back and forth in a sawing motion with steady, even strokes until the drill tip is smoking. You will gradually spin the drill faster and apply additional pressure with the hand socket. After a lot of black dust from the drill starts collecting beside the notch and there is plenty of smoke, there should be enough heat for a spark.

Hand Drill:
The basic principle for making a fire with a hand drill is the same as that for making one with the bow drill. However, instead of using a bow and socket, the drill is simply twirled between the palms of the hands. The hands should be arched out stiffly for the best results, and the drill should be least 16” inches long and tapered slightly from the bottom toward the top. Since this method is so difficult, it is not recommended as a sure way to get fire.

Maintaining a Fire:
Once a fire is obtained, a person may need to take certain care to keep it going. If you camp in one spot for a period of time, you can keep a fire alive through the night by building up a deep bed of hot coals and banking them with ashes and thin layer of dirt. The important thing is to keep the wind from the coals.

Tinder can be prepared for traveling purposes from shredded bark which is baked until it is power dry. You can then carry the tender in a dry container or wrapped in several strips of bark.
 

Miscellaneous Hints:

• Flames should be used for boiling and baking and coals for broiling and frying.

• Split wood burns better than whole chunks or logs

• A log will burn in two; therefore, there I no need to chop it.

• Soft woods give more light than hard woods.

• Reflectors should be used for warmth.

• Fire tongs save scorched fingers.

Remember to practice SAFE forest fire prevention. Great Shooting!!!
Outdoor Survival Skills, By: Larry Dean Olsen

 

Primitive  Fire  Method  tools & Supplies
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